Terrence spotted leopard tracks about 30 minutes into the drive, but it was another 30 before there were results. Other rangers reported a leopard close to where we had been. Another alerted all of us to a pack of wild dogs. We were closer to the dogs. The pack, about eight of them, were a rare sighting at Londolozi because the area is so large, and the dogs travel fast. Matt said they were the most accomplished predators in the bush because of the speed and coordination of the pack. They were stunning looking with patches of browns, grays and blacks. The wild dogs were stalking impalas and there were many to prey on. But warning calls alerted the impalas, and the dogs could not get close. Suddenly a small rodent, possibly a Springhare hiding in a thicket, got spooked and made a run for it. The wild dogs bolted after it. The Range Rovers kept up. We saw, but I couldn’t get a camera on, the rodent leap over a fallen tree but stumble over a branch. That’s all it took. Two dogs were on it, and it was gone in a blink. Blood was visible on the snouts and chests of the dogs. Vultures and hyenas appeared from nowhere to go after the tiny scraps and bones that were left.

Matt diverted to try to get a look at a leopard. He found one in a tree with a view of a large clearing with impalas, kudus and nyalas. Nothing came close enough in the 20 minutes we watched. We were only a few yards from the leopard. If there was action, I could describe it. I do not have the words to describe the beauty of the leopard. I hope the pictures I post do it justice. One sidenote: Ranger Matt has a large looseleaf with color photos and detailed descriptions of every leopard seen on the property. Animals at Londolozi are not chipped but tracked by the rangers and shared with nearby game reserves. The identifying marks for a leopard are the spots next to both sides of its mouth. Each leopard has a name and the name of its mother.

We went back to the wild dogs. They were resting after the Great Hare Hunt but eyeing other game close by. Most enticing was a baby Blue Wildebeest among a herd of about eight. The dogs alternated between periods of slumber and unrest when they milled about the Rovers including right by my side. Matt was surprised when a few of the wildebeest edged closer and closer to the dog pack. The dogs took notice and stood at attention glaring. Two wildebeest took turns moving closer and making runs toward the dogs. There was quiet. There was tension. If wildebeest and wild dogs have testosterone, it was on full display. Finally, the two wildebeest, not in unison, made daring charges toward the dogs. The wild dogs backed off. They retreated into an area with thickets of trees and shrubs. The wildebeest backed away from the battleground in the opposite direction. For now, the baby was safe.